every effort to restore your auto trim parts to their original condition.
This not always possible, however, because
old trim auto parts are often corroded or damaged. Our work is performed
on a "best effort" basis.
When your parts arrive at our facility for restoration,
we assign a work order number, photograph and scribe the back for
identification and tracking. Once the overall condition of the part
is evaluated, we contact you with a firm and final quote. Our turn-around
time depends on the size of the order, the difficulty of the restoration,
and how busy we are. In most cases, your order will be ready in 5 to
6 weeks. If you have a deadline, please plan ahead and give us enough
time to do a good job.
Once your parts has been marked and the restoration is approved, the
parts are stripped off to the base metal using appropriate chemicals
to remove paints and anodizing. The parts are then moved to our straightening
facility, where all the nicks, dents, bends, etc. are fixed and straightened
to its original shape. Sometimes, we encounter trim which has been
damaged or altered in such a way that welding is required
to correct the problem. If the repair is in a visible area, the welded
aluminum will show a milky appearance when anodized. The discoloration
is due to the alloy used for welding and thermal changes in the aluminum.
We strongly advise our customers to locate parts where welding is not
required. Sometimes it is not possible, however welding should be used
as a last resource.
Cores are being moved to the polishing room, where the parts are grinded,
leveled, and hand polished to a mirror finish. If a satin finish is
required, it is also applied in the polishing room using special materials
and wheels. Polishing is a very delicate operation that requires qualified
personnel. The experienced polisher can remove corrosion without ruining
the part, produce a high luster finish without
overheating and leave a smooth surface without undesirable marks.
The anodizing process requires that parts be placed in a rack to
hold them and secure a positive contact point for the electricity
to flow. Parts must be perfectly clean to achieve good results
(no residues of polishing compound, dirt, finger prints, oils, etc).
A phosphoric acid based chemical polishing (bright dip) is used to
produce a highly reflective surface, which is protected with an anodizing
film. Because of the porous nature of the anodizing, the surface is
excellent for painting. Parts are masked depending upon the painting
scheme. We have spend countless hours developing the proper painting
formulations, textures and painting techniques to duplicate the original
Shipping and handling
For straight pieces of trim we recommend using a PVC pipe of sufficient
diameter and length to accommodate your parts. Make sure that both ends
are secure to avoid losing merchandise in transit. For other pieces,
use a sturdy box with plenty of padding. If possible, reinforce the corners
with cardboard angle. Another alternative is to build a wooden crate.
We strongly advise insuring your merchandise for full value with your
How does restored trim compares to NOS?
Restored aluminum is superior to NOS. The attention to detail in all
facets of the process cannot be duplicated in a production line. The
smooth polished surface, the reflectivity of bright dipped anodized aluminum,
the perfect line definition in masking and detailing, and the passion
to bring an outstanding product to market makes King Of Trim restorations
a better choice.
Does aluminum needs to be anodized?
Aluminum must be anodized. No car manufacturer specifies OEM trim without
anodizing. The anodic layer protects metal against corrosion and will
be trouble free for years. If your aluminum trim is being polished without
anodizing, you risk ruining your valuable parts. They will not be properly
protected, and you will also need to hand polish the parts several times
a year to keep them shiny.
Care of anodized aluminum and stainless steel
Exterior anodized aluminum and stainless steel automotive trim is subjected
to tars, road film, mud, snow, ice and salt, which create a corrosive
environment. In spite of the excellent resistance of anodized aluminum
and stainless steel, prolonged, continuous exposure to these elements
without cleaning can cause some local breakdown of the anodizing layer.
Just as any other automotive finishes must be cleaned as soil accumulates,
so must anodized aluminum and stainless steel be restored to its original
appearance when soiled. Harsh chemical cleaners are not required and
should not be used for maintaining aluminum anodized and stainless steel.Mild
soap and water will remove most soils from anodized aluminum and stainless
steel. Stubborn contaminants are readily removed with commercially available
soap-impregnated steel wool cleaning pads.
Abrasive wax cleaners are also effective. Tars and other petroleum-base
films can be removed with commercial solvents formulated for this purpose.
Cleaners, waxes and polishes that are safe for use on automotive paint
finishes are generally satisfactory for use on anodized aluminum and
stainless steel trim. These should be used on the aluminum trim and
stainless steel as frequently as on the rest of the automobile.
Cleaning with steam alone is not injurious to anodized aluminum or stainless
steel. However, care should be taken to avoid contact of the aluminum
trim with strong, uninhibited alkaline steam cleaners sometimes used
to clean the lower portions of automobiles. Certain of these products
can dissolve or stain anodized finishes.